LAWNS IN THE SHADE Shaded lawns are troublesome because of reduced light and competition with trees for water and nutrients. Even the most shade-tolerant grasses never make as good a sod in the shade as do grasses growing in the sun. Sometimes shade alone is the chief difficulty such as on sites near buildings or under deep-rooted, high-branched trees. In many cases good soil preparation plus a shade-tolerant turfgrasss mixture makes an acceptable lawn. Fine fescues are the best grasses to use if soil is dry; rough bluegrasses, if soil is moist. Several shade-tolerant Kentucky bluegrasses are also available. Turfgrass is much harder to grow under dense, shallow-rooted trees because trees cut off the light and rob the soil of water and fertilizer. Of the common trees, Norway maple is the worst offender. In such situations, even your best efforts to establish a lawn may fail. If this is the case, try using perennial ryegrass at the rate of 6-8 pounds per 1,000 square feet instead of the other grasses. Mow it high, water whenever the soil is dry, and fertilize each spring and fall. Whenever dead patches appear, loosen the soil and sow more seed. If you are unable to grow a lawn, look for a lawn substitute or ground covers suitable for your area. If these also fail, consider flagstone, brick, or gravel. 

STEEP SLOPES Avoid steep slopes if possible. They tend to be dry, and lawns are difficult to establish and maintain. If you do decide to use turfgrass on a steep slope, be sure to round off the crest of the slope to avoid scalping. Whenever possible, sod a steep slope. This prevents a heavy rainfall from washing away all the topsoil and generally ensures that the slope will become established. On very steep slopes, each piece of sod may need to be fastened with a peg and twine. To plant a slope with seed, follow all the important points described for seeding. Pay special attention to seedbed preparation and fertilization, and be sure to plant in early fall. A straw mulch, burlap, or cheesecloth covering is essential during the first few weeks of establishment. Give turf on steep slopes the same care as other lawn areas, and remember to fertilize, mow, and water properly. Ground covers such as ajuga may be used as substitutes for turf on steep slopes.

  MOSS Moss is an indication that growing conditions are not ideal for turfgrass. Favorable conditions for moss include low fertility, poor drainage, unadapted grass species, shade, and humidity. Mosses may also be found in thin turf and full sunlight. Closely mowed turf composed of nonaggressive species is especially prone to moss encroachment.

Depending on your own lawn, controlling moss may entail doing one or more of the following:

• Increase nitrogen fertility
• Raise mowing height
• Adjust irrigation practices to avoid excessive water
• Improve drainage with tiles, dry wells, French drains,   or by   elevating depressions
• Use a turfgrass species better adapted to the site    such as fine fescue or rough bluegrass in shaded areas

There is no guaranteed chemical control for moss. The best treatment involves applying iron sulfate or ferrous ammonium sulfate at 1 pound per 1,000 square feet. Water the material after the moss turns black, about one hour after application. It is best to make this application in cool humid weather. Repeat applications may be necessary. The moss should be raked out after it is dead to avoid formation of an impervious layer over the soil surface. Follow with an application of lawn fertilizer to encourage growth of desirable grasses back into these areas. If sizable bare spots remain after removing the moss, it may be necessary to reestablish the spots by seeding or sodding.